No Cats but an Intriguing Island

Before this trip, I had read an article that Van was famous for its cats.  Unlike most cats, which avoid water and prefer dry places, the Van Cat is known for its unusual passion for swimming.  Their unique behavior has intrigued researchers and animal lovers around the world and their playful and friendly nature has turned them into symbols of the region.  Beyond their surprising behavior, these cats also impress with their stunning appearance.  Most have immaculate white fur, soft and silky, often adorned with a reddish patch on the head or back, which locals reverently call the "mark of Allah."   Another fascinating characteristic of these cats is heterochromia—the presence of two differently colored eyes. It is not uncommon for a Van Cat to have one eye as blue as the sky and the other a deep amber.  This ancient breed is carefully protected in Turkey, where it has become part of the cultural identity of the Van region. In fact, the Van Cat has become a true source of national pride, with its image frequently used in souvenirs, postcards, and tourist materials.  Today, the Van Cat is not just a biological curiosity, but a living symbol of the harmony between nature, tradition, and mystery.  Learning about these cats was one of the reasons I wanted to visit this area.  Of course, while the breed certainly exists, they do not wander around as I expected they would like cats in so many other places in Turkey.  So, there was no Van cat spotted on my visit here - other than the image of one on a shopping bag.  Atahan told me that buying one of these cats can cost in excess of $5000 USD - no wonder they aren't roaming the streets freely!!  The closest thing I saw to a Van cat was an image of one on a shopping bag in one of the souvenir shops near the boat dock. 

However, Van held another surprise for me - the island of Akdamar about ¾ hour drive away.  We started our day at a roadside restaurant stopping for a traditional breakfast Van is known for - a selection of breads, honeys, olives and cheeses plus an omelet. 

From there, we drove to the boat dock and got on a boat for the 20 minute ride to Akdamar island.  The island is surrounded by the stunning backdrop of snow-capped mountains and the vivid blue waters of Lake Van.  It is home to an historic 10th century Armenian Holy Cross cathedral.  This offers a rare glimpse into a thousand years of Armenian religious history.  

The cathedral was built between 915 and 921 AD using distinctive pink volcanic tuff by the architect-monk, Manuel.  The exterior walls of the Holy Cross Cathedral present an exceptional medieval artistic achievement through extensive bas-relief carvings.  These bold reliefs surround the building in various bands at different heights, sometimes erupting from walls as sculpture, other times appearing as bordures enhancing the architecture.

Inside the cathedral is another artistic treasure—interior walls adorned with vibrant frescoes. Unlike the exterior carvings, these painted works are relatively uncommon in Armenian art, making them particularly significant.  The frescoes narrate the Story of Creation alongside scenes from Christ's life in bold colors that have been painstakingly restored.  While many remain distinguishable and some are well preserved, others have suffered significant damage over the centuries.  Despite this, the restoration work has revived their visual impact, with saints and biblical characters now adorning nearly every surface of the church interior. 

Around the cathedral are the weathered remnants of what was once a thriving monastic settlement.  During the reign of King Gagik I Artsruni (908-943/944), the island flourished as a royal residence featuring a large square palace decorated with frescoes, streets, gardens, and orchards.  Today, only fragments remain of this once-grand complex.  To the south of the cathedral, one can still explore ruins that were part of the monastery that functioned until 1915. The courtyard area contains what's left of monks' cells, storage facilities, and various functional buildings. Near the Holy Cross Cathedral sits the ruined Chapel of St. Stephen, constructed at the end of the 13th century.

Once we had visited the island and Atahan had told me of its controversial past – related to the difficult relationship between the Turks and the Armenians, we headed back to Van where I was more than ready to have a nap.  That evening we went back to the hotel restaurant but had a much more subdued evening - early dinner - and I was craving some western food so had a very delicious cheeseburger following by some Turkish cakes dripping in honey.  Early to bed for an early morning tomorrow.